Troubleshooting Bix'n Andy Triggers
Bullet Central presents another Tech Central video with Chris Harris where he explains several (but not all) of the reasons people call in for Troubleshooting Bix’n Andy Triggers.
Covered in this video
For a more thorough instruction on how to clean your Bix’n Andy trigger, check out this video.
Key points:
- The number one stoppage for Bix’n Andy triggers is dirt.
- Do not run lighter fluid into your trigger. Brake Cleaner is a much better solution for cleaning your trigger.
- The Bix’n Andy trigger can safely be used at 1/10th of an ounce. With this, you must understand that the different parts and forces of the trigger, so a little bit of dirt or fluid can upset the usability of the trigger.
- Be sure the trigger is out of your rifle, open, and all parts are removed. Clean the inside of the trigger, the trigger housing, and all the parts with Brake Cleaner.
- Bix’n Andy triggers are designed to run bone dry.
- Clean your trigger regularly, not only when you run into problems.
Improper Adjustments of your Bix’n Andy Trigger
Key points:
- Improper adjustments can cause creep, or cause your trigger to not function
- Be sure your sear adjustment is properly set. It is important that when you set the sear properly, that you turn the sear adjustment in until the rifle won’t function. At this point turn the sear adjustment out(counter-clockwise), about 1/16th of an inch at a time until the cocking piece can be held by the top sear. Once there, test the rifle by vigorously open and closing the bolt to make sure the cocking piece won’t fall. If the cocking piece falls then back the sear out about another 45 degrees, or 1/16th of a turn. Then test again to make sure the sear is set correctly.
- If you have any creep with a Bix’n Andy trigger, there is something wrong. The Bix’n Andy was designed to have no creep at all.
- Cocking on closing: When you close the bolt, and there’s a little hitch and it looks as though the firing pin wants to back out as you close the bolt.
- This is problem because it unsettled the rifle, and more importantly as you move the bolt forward the cocking piece is going to engage with the top sear before you are ready and can put allot of unnecessary weight on the top sear.
- Be sure that your rifle and trigger are properly tuned. Install a different trigger hanger, or use an adjustable hanger, or go to your gunsmith and ask him to modify your sear.
Pull Force Adjustment
Key Points:
- In some recent batched the pull force adjustment screw has been very difficult to adjust. Don’t be afraid to put force on the screw, especially if you have a good allen wrench (like the one that comes with all Bix’n Andy triggers). If you are uncomfortable with this, take a T6 torque wrench and use that to break the set screw free. Once that screw is free you’ll be able to adjust as needed. This is not a problem on every trigger, just in a recent batch of them.
- Be sure to choose the right spring. The competition trigger comes with 3 springs, these can be identified by the diameter. Be sure not to put too much force on the spring, or it will buckle and you will need to get a new spring. If the spring is too loose your trigger could end up too sloppy.
How to Remove the Bolt Stop:
You may need to remove your bolt stop if you are not going to use a Remington style action, or if you are using an action that has a bolt stop built into it.
- Back out the square nut (Competition trigger) or remove the e-clip (TacSport trigger)
- remove the bolt stop
- Replace the square nut (Competition trigger), keep the e-clip off the trigger (TacSport trigger)
How to Change the Springs on a Two-Stage Trigger
- Remove the trigger mount bar before taking the springs out. You can still adjust the springs through the bar, but you can not change them with the bar on.
Sometimes the sear height of your trigger may not fit exactly into your action.
In the Competition model, it uses a 3.6 sear, which is a slightly lower sear height then a Jewell trigger.
2 problems with sear heights:
- If the sear height is too low, the cocking piece can go right over the top of the top sear, and trigger won’t engage. To fix this you need to have a lower cocking piece, or a higher top sear.
- The sear height is too high, which causes too much engagement and can prevent the cocking piece from going over the top. (such as in the Big Horn TL3, Big Horn SR3, Surgeon).
To make things easier for our customers we are now offering three different heights of sears; Low, Medium, and High.
What we need to know to help you find the correct sear for your action:
- The distance between the top of the dowel pins that secure the trigger and the cocking piece where it engages with the top sear.
For help determining which sear you need just call us at +1 701 371 4444.
The 2 most common damages to a Bix’n Andy trigger:
- Blown Primer: This can destroy some of the parts within the trigger, such as the top sear and the retainer bar
- Rifle dropped: breaks the bottom sear, or bends the trigger shoe
If you have any other issues you would like us to comment on, let us know! Give us a call (+1 701 371 4444) or send us an email!
I see that you have done a good job covering this trigger but it does not show how to change the trigger spring, do you have to totally remove the trigger adjustment screw and simply install another spring? this is on the bench rest model
Hello Bruce,
Please check out this video: http://www.old.bulletcentral.com/detailed-cleaning-trigger-video-tutorial/
It explains how to remove your spring around 6:51, then just replace that spring with the new spring. If you have any other questions feel free to call us at the office at +1 701 371 4444.
I just saw your video on the different available top sears on YouTube. I believe I came may have a top sear that may need to be too low in my BnA competition 2 stage trigger.
During a fun match at my club, i cycled the bolt after a shot and when I pulled the trigger for then next shot, nothing happened. I thought that maybe I short stroked when I brought the bolt back. So I had to extract the round that was still in the chamber and check for a firing pin strike which it did not show on the primer. I reloaded a different round into the chamber and it worked fine. I then put the round that didn’t go off previously and it fired ok this time. Later in the match. It happened again twice. Same sort of scenario.
Am I correct in assuming that I may need a taller top sear? I have used the rifle with the trigger and have not come across the problem in my last match. Just worried it might occur again. Does a slightly low Top Sear engagement with a cocking piece cause this issue intermittently or all the time?
I am using a Pierce Tube Action made for Gary Eliseo’s UMRS. His company installed the trigger so I don’t know where he purchased the trigger from. I have not made any measurements yet. I’ll probably contact Gary to let him know about my issues and also about your video in the different top sears if he doesn’t know it yet and see what his opinion is. Anyway, I’d appreciate advice.
Hi Mike,
We’d be happy to help you out! Would you mind giving us a call at +1 701 371 4444 so we can really understand exactly what is happening?
Thank you,
The Team at Bullet Central
I think I may have it resolved. I contacted Gary and he believes that I should adjust the sear engagement screw. I just tried it according to your directions and adjusted to get a bit more engagement. I suspect that the firing pin was falling when closing the bolt when I had the issue. Setting for more engagement gives me peace of mind for safety. I really like this trigger. It gives me confidence when operating it.